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Après l’indépendance, un sentiment d’excitation et de renaissance culturelle a balayé de nombreux pays africains. C’était une époque de créativité et de libération, écrit Precious Adesina.
Lorsque Sanlé Sory a été photographié pour sa carte d’identité en 1957, il a été surpris de découvrir à quel point c’était cher, ce qui lui a donné l’idée de créer sa propre entreprise.
“J’ai payé environ 25 000 francs [ouest-africains] [£32] et une bouteille de whisky à un photographe ghanéen, Kojo Adamako, pour devenir son apprenti pendant environ deux ans”, déclare le photographe burkinabé Sory à BBC Culture.
“C’était le début d’une nouvelle carrière, juste au moment où mon pays était sur le point d’accéder à l’indépendance.” Au milieu des années 1960, Sory avait ouvert Volts Photo, un studio de photographie à Bobo-Dioulasso, la deuxième ville du Burkina Faso, qui a rapidement pris son envol.
Au début de la carrière de Sory, en 1960, 17 nations africaines étaient devenues indépendantes . Dans les années qui ont suivi, des studios photographiques ont vu le jour sur tout le continent, documentant par défaut comment chaque pays a embrassé sa nouvelle libération.
“Il y avait un sentiment total de liberté à l’époque, et la plupart des gens méprisaient le passé colonial [de leur pays]. Ils voulaient être eux-mêmes”, explique Sory. Son travail – et des images de studio d’autres photographes à travers le continent à l’époque – se trouvent dans Africa Fashion , une exposition au Victoria and Albert Museum de Londres.
Le spectacle explore la mode à travers l’Afrique du milieu du XXe siècle à aujourd’hui, en examinant la photographie, les textiles, la musique et les arts visuels. Mais ce n’est pas qu’une question de style.
“Notre objectif, à travers l’exposition, est d’utiliser la mode comme catalyseur pour donner à notre public un aperçu de la myriade de cultures et d’histoires sur le continent”, déclare la conservatrice principale, le Dr Christine Checinska, à BBC Culture.
La période de décolonisation a déclenché un nouveau sentiment d’enthousiasme chez les artistes de nombreux pays d’Afrique.
L’exposition commence par l’ère des indépendances en Afrique, et emmène les spectateurs dans un voyage de là jusqu’à aujourd’hui et la mode qui émerge actuellement du continent. Les pièces contemporaines incluent des œuvres du label nigérian Orange Culture – qui défient les idées de “vêtements masculins” – ainsi que des tenues sur mesure.
“Nous commençons à l’ère de l’indépendance parce que, pour beaucoup, cela incarne la fierté d’être noir et africain”, explique Checinska. La période de décolonisation a déclenché un nouveau sentiment d’enthousiasme chez les artistes de nombreux pays d’Afrique.
C’était une époque de renaissance culturelle africaine, beaucoup utilisant leur médium pour explorer leur relation avec leur pays.
“Naturellement, les gens ont saisi l’opportunité de se forger leur propre identité. Ils ont ressenti la liberté de s’exprimer sans être sous l’œil colonial”, explique David Hill, propriétaire de l’espace photographique de l’ouest de Londres, David Hill Gallery.
La photographie en studio n’était pas nouvelle, mais des vitesses d’obturation plus rapides et des processus de développement moins chers, ainsi que la pléthore de nouveaux studios, permettaient aux gens d’enregistrer et de célébrer même les réalisations mineures de leur vie.
“Il y avait un besoin pour les gens d’avoir des photos d’eux-mêmes à donner à leurs amis et à leur famille”, a déclaré Hill à BBC Culture.
Capturer un instant
Le photographe béninois Rachidi Bissirou , dont le travail est également dans l’exposition au V&A, a régulièrement photographié des gens avec leurs motos. Dans une photo sans titre de 1978, un jeune homme appelé Albert est assis sur une Honda aux côtés de deux amis élégamment habillés.
“Ce sont souvent des gars à la fin de l’adolescence, au début de la vingtaine, avec leur nouveau vélo brillant, qui veulent enregistrer le moment. Ils pourraient demander six photos, qui sont généralement au format carte postale”, explique Hill.
Les gens se sentaient libres et fiers, et cela s’exprimait dans leurs vêtements et leur attitude, Rachidi Bissirou.
Dans les photographies de Sory, les clients posaient fréquemment devant des toiles de fond aux couleurs vives, représentant, par exemple, une plage, un avion, tenant souvent divers accessoires pour compléter la scène.
Dans Allo, on Arrive!, réalisé en 1978 par Sory, deux hommes en pantalon évasé posent devant un avion en toile de fond. L’un se tient comme s’il montait à bord de l’avion, tandis que l’autre met en scène un appel téléphonique sur un téléphone à cadran.
“C’était assez courant pour les gens d’avoir une boîte d’accessoires”, dit Hill, “des pistolets en plastique, des épées et des boucliers, des radios portables. Ce genre de choses.”
Quelle que soit la manière dont nous percevons ces images aujourd’hui, de nombreux photographes de l’époque considéraient leur pratique comme un métier plutôt qu’une forme d’art, ce qui signifiait qu’ils étaient souvent inconscients de ce qui se passait dans le médium en dehors de leur communauté immédiate.
“Je ne connaissais aucun autre photographe à l’époque. Je voyais simplement la photographie comme un moyen de gagner de l’argent et de commencer une carrière”, déclare Sory, ajoutant que les gens posaient comme ils voulaient.
Une grande partie du travail de Sory nous apparaît maintenant comme de la photographie de mode, bien qu’elle n’ait jamais été conçue comme telle.
“Les gens se sentaient libres et fiers, et cela s’exprimait dans leurs vêtements et leur attitude”, ajoute Bissirou. “Je les ai parfois aidés à poser, mais les vêtements leur appartiennent.”
Au-delà de la photographie de studio, l’indépendance a eu un impact sur de nombreux aspects de la sphère culturelle à travers l’Afrique.
En 1966, le président sénégalais Léopold Senghor a organisé le premier Festival mondial des arts nègres (FESMAN) à Dakar, le premier événement moderne célébrant la culture noire mondiale.
C’était l’occasion de commémorer les arts dans les nations africaines nouvellement indépendantes et comprenait plus de 2 000 écrivains, artistes et musiciens de toute l’Afrique et de la diaspora africaine.
“La sophistication du continent s’est manifestée à travers la créativité dans les arts”, déclare Checinska, ajoutant que “le pouvoir de la créativité d’influer sur le changement” était évident tout au long du festival.
Certains artistes ont aussi utilisé l’indépendance pour questionner les pratiques de leur pays. La pochette de Lemi Gharioukwu pour l’album de 1989 du musicien nigérian Fela Kuti, Beast of No Nation, est présentée au début de l’exposition.
“Beasts of No Nation a condamné la génération post-indépendance de politiciens perdus, déplorant les opportunités manquées et les vies brisées”, écrit l’historien Gus Casely-Hayford dans le catalogue de l’exposition.
Kuti est largement considéré comme l’un des musiciens les plus influents à avoir émergé du Nigeria après l’indépendance, et sa musique a encore un impact sur les artistes et la conversation politique aujourd’hui.
“L’album a puisé dans le contexte culturel plus large des frustrations paralysantes et de la déception amère du continent vis-à-vis de ses politiciens et de ses milieux d’affaires, mais il a également reflété l’énergie infatigable des secteurs créatifs africains et leur volonté irrépressible de créer de belles choses face à des défis inimaginables. “
Cela dit, même avec des similitudes entre pays, Africa Fashion se garde bien d’homogénéiser l’ensemble du continent, faisant place à montrer les différences entre pays. “Nous voulons qu’il reste ouvert”, explique le conservateur.
“Si vous regardez le texte de la galerie ou chaque fois que nous en parlons, nous n’utilisons jamais le singulier. C’est toujours des modes africaines, au pluriel, car nous voulons reconnaître que ce sont des choses multiples.”
Et en montrant le continent du point de vue des personnes qui y vivent, un sens plus authentique des pays africains peut être vu, exempt de stéréotypes manifestes et de préjugés occidentaux.
“Si vous faites venir un photographe occidental, c’est lié à 400 ans de problèmes, sinon plus”, déclare Hill. “C’est une image plus honnête de la société, de la façon dont les gens vivaient, de ce qu’ils portaient et de la façon dont ils vivaient leur vie quotidienne.”
Africa Fashion est au V&A, Londres jusqu’au 16 avril 2023 et Rachidi Bissiriou Gloire : Immortelle est à la David Hill Gallery, Londres, jusqu’au 21 octobre.
BBC
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