Après la viande, le café de laboratoire? Des scientifiques finlandais ont mis au point une nouvelle technique permettant de fabriquer, ils l’espèrent de manière plus durable que dans les plantations tropicales, l’une des boissons les plus consommées au monde.
“C’est vraiment du café, parce qu’il n’y a rien d’autre que de la matière de café dans le produit”, assure à l’AFP le Dr Heiko Rischer.
Ce nouvel or noir n’a pas été moulu mais résulte d’un amas de cellules provenant d’une plante de café, dans des conditions de température, de lumière et d’oxygène étroitement contrôlées dans un bioréacteur.
Une fois torréfiée, la poudre peut être préparée exactement de la même manière que le café classique.
Pour l’équipe du Dr Rischer, de l’institut finlandais de recherche technique VTT, la technique permet d’éviter les écueils environnementaux du café, dont la production mondiale avoisine les 10 millions de tonnes de grains.
“Le café est bien sûr un produit problématique”, affirme le spécialiste, notamment en raison du réchauffement climatique. Celui-ci rend les plantations existantes moins productives et pousse ainsi les agriculteurs à défricher davantage de forêt tropicale pour de nouvelles cultures.
“Il y a aussi la question du transport, de l’utilisation de combustibles fossiles (…), il est donc tout à fait logique de chercher des alternatives”, poursuit le scientifique.
Le café développé par les chercheurs utilise les mêmes principes d’agriculture cellulaire que ceux de plus en plus utilisés pour produire de la viande cultivée en laboratoire, qui n’implique pas l’abattage du bétail.
Cette dernière production a été autorisée en 2020 à la vente par les autorités de Singapour, une première.
L’équipe finlandaise procède actuellement à une analyse plus approfondie de la durabilité de leur produit s’il est fabriqué à grande échelle.
“Nous savons déjà que notre empreinte sur l’eau, par exemple, est bien inférieure à ce qui est nécessaire pour la croissance des champs”, explique M. Rischer. La technique nécessiterait également moins de main-d’œuvre que pour le café traditionnel.
Méfiance
Le projet revêt une importance particulière en Finlande, qui, selon les analystes de Statista, se classe parmi les plus grandes nations consommatrices de café au monde, avec une moyenne de dix kilos par personne et par an consommés.
Pour les amateurs de café, la clé du succès sera son goût. Jusqu’à présent, seul un panel d'”experts sensoriels” spécialement formés est autorisé à goûter cette nouvelle boisson – en raison de son statut de “nouvel aliment”.
“L’une des directives du comité d’éthique est juste de goûter et de cracher, pas d’avaler”, explique à l’AFP Heikki Aisala, qui dirige les testeurs du projet.
“Par rapport au café ordinaire, le café cellulaire est moins amer”, selon M. Aisala, qui avance la thèse d’un teneur en caféine légèrement plus faible. Son goût fruité est également moins prononcé.
“Cela dit, nous devons admettre que nous ne sommes pas des torréfacteurs professionnels et qu’une grande partie de la création d’arômes se produit au cours du processus de torréfaction”, reconnaît de son côté M. Rischer.
Une fois les tests et le perfectionnement du processus terminés, l’équipe espère trouver un partenaire pour augmenter la production et pouvoir commercialiser son café cellulaire.
Les chercheurs estiment qu’il faudra au moins quatre ans avant que le café cultivé en laboratoire ne se retrouve sur les étagères d’épiceries et de supermarchés.
D’autres initiatives ont aussi vu le jour pour tenter de trouver une alternative plus durable au café. La startup Atomo à Seattle a annoncé en septembre avoir levé 11,5 millions de dollars pour son “café moléculaire” ayant le même goût que le café traditionnel mais qui provient d’une matière organique autre qu’une plante de café.
Toutefois, des enquêtes menées aux Etats-Unis et au Canada ont révélé une méfiance du public, notamment plus âgé, à l’égard des substituts alimentaires cultivés en laboratoire.
En dépit des avantages pour l’environnement, certains spécialistes de la politique alimentaire ont également averti que les moyens de subsistance des producteurs de café pourraient être menacés en cas de généralisation des produits de laboratoire.
© 2021 AFP
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